Boston on the Cheap
A Guide to the City on a Budget
Friday, August 14, 2009
By Courtney Nzeribe
My aunt is a great travel buddy and a good travel buddy is hard to find. I’ve seen many people fall out over travel with otherwise great companions. Since I started co habituating with my boyfriend, my aunt misses those good times we used to have on the road. Let her tell you about an adventure we had one day in the Budapest subway.
With my boyfriend spending so much time away in Europe for work these last few months, my aunt invited me tag along to Boston with her as she took her Harvard Board Review Courses for Internal Medicine. I had some miles in the bank, so I said “Why not?” A round trip ticket cost me 25,000 miles and $7 in fees. Not bad. Free hotel with the aunt and a few hundred in my pocket, and I could focus on fun. The challenge was to fill seven full days with good eating (not global chain fast food joints) while on a limited budget. Normally I prepare with costly travel books. This time, I decided to use my Blackberry browser, Yelp.com reviews and Twitter recommendations as guide.
So here, in Daily Journal form, is how we navigated those seven days in Beantown:
Saturday after Arrival
Walked from hotel to Faneuil Hall. This is the tourist place in Boston offering plenty of restaurants, shops, and amusements with free entertainment from street performers. Auntie and I were tired and thirsty so we picked the Salty Dog Seafood Grille and Bar. Without a set travel plan yet, we chose to just sit outside and take it all in. I wouldn't say it was expensive - or inexpensive either. You are paying for the ambiance and touristy crowds. Auntie paid for this round as my frugal journey was to begin the next day. I had the fried clam sandwich and she had a rich catfish etouffee dish. We walked around a bit more around the market place and treated ourselves to gelato at around $4.75 a scoop. Note: Boston is a walking city, so be prepared with good shoes.
Salty Dog Seafood Grille and Bar
(617) 742-2094
206 Faneuil Hall Market Pl
Boston, MA 02109 42.3601 -71.0534
Sunday
Auntie’s classes were all day long so I was left to fend for myself. I had coffee in the room and fruit purchased the night before from a market for breakfast. A great way to save money. The hotel was right across the street from No Name Restaurant, a well known dive on the docks known for its cheap eats. Reviews have varied over the years, so I didn't set my hopes high, but still wanted to see for myself. The menu was brief and the food was either fried or broiled.
Drinks were served in paper cups stacked on table. Beer drinkers got little plastic ones. I ordered the Seafood Plate for $15.95. Fried oysters, shrimp, scallops, and scrod with fries , coleslaw, and tartar. This was my second fried meal in Boston. All in all pretty good and not overdone. The scallops were my favorite. This meal would hold someone over while taking some heavy walking and touring .The total bill: $18.81 plus tip.
I decided to get my bearings with a trolley tour. I chose the City View Trolley for a number of reasons. $6 was knocked of the ticket price if ordered online and I got a free trolley tour of either Cambridge or Salem that day as well. I spent $28 rather than $34. One could hop on and off for the tour to explore. With that in mind I hopped off at stop number 4 at the Charlestown Naval Yards , home of the USS Constitution (the oldest US warship), to catch the trolley to Cambridge, the liberal, progressive and funky of home of MIT & Harvard (and of course the Skip Gates incident).
I walked back to the North End where the tour guide pointed out the Italian North End Summer Feasts and Progressions that go on each weekend in summer. Paul Revere’s house is also in the North End. I strolled the street fest of Saint Agrippina Di Mineo and purchased an Arrancini(stuffed Rice Ball) for $5 and an Cherry Italian Slush for $3. Walking back in early evening I noticed a bakery with lines out to the street. Mike’s is a well known Italian pastry shop where I managed to make my way through the crowds and purchase a Rum Nut Roll for $3 to take back to hotel. I walked for miles that day and didn't feel guilty about the great foods. Total tab for day was:
$29 for food
$28 Trolley
$2 in tips for trolley
City View Trolley Tours
www.cityviewtrolleys.com/
Mikes Pastry
www.mikespastry.com/index.html
Monday
I paid $2 to ride the MBTA to Cambridge. I had a great Vietnamese lunch at Le's a restaurant in the Garage near Harvard Square . Eating fried foods the past few days I wanted a restorative big bowl of Pho, thinly sliced raw beef in broth (some versions have chicken), sprouts, noodles,and basil, topped off with Sriracha or Hoisin sauce. As people come in from all over the world for a top education, there are plenty of ethnic restaurants in The Peoples Republic of Cambridge. The cost of living in Cambridge is high as well. Lunch cost $14.40 for some shrimp toast and medium Pho, plus tip.
Le's Cambridge
lescambridge.com/
The day was flying and based on several recommendations dinner was at Mr Bartley's. Each burger is named after some political figure or incident. Recent menu additions were the Sgt Crowley Burger. I couldn't decide on the Sip Gates burger or Stimulus package. I chose the the Stimulus which offered baked bean on the side rather than the famous onion rings or fries. Be sure to get their awesome Lime Rickey's to drink. Total bill for dinner was $13.50. I admit I forgot to tip after going inside to pay cashier. I should know better, but the service was excellent. Please forgive me.
Tuesday
Being in Boston , it’s hard to escape all the various offerings of Lobster Rolls. I know my lobster and wanted the best. I ate lobster as a wee baby before the mass Red Lobsters and such arrived. Every week I had to have it, no kiddie menu for me. There was a famous place down the street from the hotel which offered a good value roll. I chose to go for the highest rated roll I read about. A hot buttered roll with not a lick of mayo and just pure chunks of decadent lobster.
Neptune Oyster Bar was the recommendation. I got lost on the way and after a few miles of walking I found the small classy boite of a restaurant and ordered the roll complete with french fries . The price was higher than I read, at $25!!! But dinner was on the aunt later and I needed my lobster and nice glass of South African Chenin Blanc for $10 to recover from getting lost. Neptune is a must see and budget accordingly. Total bill was $36.75 plus tip and worth every penny.
Neptune Oyster Bar
www.neptuneoyster.com/
Dinner was a costly and excellent affair and treat from Auntie, at Mare in the North End. Count on spending approx $75-$100 per person with drinks. Fine and healthful Italian seafood. Finish with an excellent dessert there like the Tiramusu Panna Cotta, or head over to Modern Pastry or Mikes for desert as you walk the cobbles streets of the North end. The owner Frank De Pasquale has numerous shops and restaurants on the North End. Check out De Pasquale's for high end gourmet items and hand crafted pasta which you can see being made right in the window. The pastas made on premise supply the restaurants.
Mare
www.marenatural.com/
Modern Pastry
www.modernpastry.com/
De Pasquale's
www.homemade-pasta.com/
Wednesday
I decided to lay low and stick by the hotel for some reading and to cut back on expenses. I noticed Yankee Lobster Co. down the street by the docks. For lunch I had a small clam chowder for $3.75 and a salad of fresh picked crab over a bed of crisp greens for $12.95. There was even a daily special of 1/2 a Maine lobster dinner with fries for $12.95. Indoor and outdoor seating by the Bank of America Pavilion. While reading up on the place on Yelp as I ate, I noticed that some people venture onto the Harpoon Brewery, New England's largest craft brewery, down the street. I checked out the times for weekday tastings and saw they are everyday at 4pm.
Total lunch $18.99.
The tastings are complimentary held inside the store of the Brewery. The craft beer brewery was started in 1986 by a Harvard student as a thesis project. Harpoon is expanding to the Midwest and Texas as well. For one hour we listened to brewery facts and tasted generous samples of the various beers. I purchased some Limited edition Bock to take home. People are finding beer pairs even more greatly with food than wine and more and more people are discovering the varieties and complexities of beer. If you have kid they have sodas too to sample. Tours and tastings are available on the weekends.
Yankee Lobster Co.
www.yankeelobstercompany.com/
Harpoon Brewery
www.harpoonbrewery.com/
The rest of trip was spent revisiting areas and just relaxing. Here are some other noteworthy places of interest to visit while in Boston.
Polcari's Coffee
I wish more more of these establishments were around today. A 75 year old institution on the North End specializing in coffee, teas, grains, extracts for pastry and liquor making ,and spices at affordable prices.n Nicky gave me exceptional service and cookbook in Italian! They don't take credit cards, but they do accept checks. Polcari's ships as well.In the summer try their lemon slush outside the store. It old school, but I wouldn't have it any other way.
www.northendboston.com/polcaricoffee/
Commonwealth Books
If you love books, especially antiquarian, out of print ones ranging in all subjects and languages, this place is for you. I got lost in the cookbook and history sections. Some deals can be found, and some volumes will set you back a bit, but it worth every penny . There are two locations in Boston.
www.commonwealthbooks.com/
J.Pace and Sons
If you are exploring the South Boston Seaport and want a quick affordable breakfast, lunch , dinner, or supplies for the hotel room , check out J.Pace. Hot and Cold Sandwiches, pastas, and Italian baked goods await. They actually have 5 locations. If you are a food lover check out their grocery for hard to find Italian items and a great selection of dried and fresh pasta. They also have indoor and outdoor seating.
jpaceandson.com/index.php
Samuel Adams Brewery
Boston has a rich Brewery Tradition. Be sure to visit Samuel Adams Brewery for a free tour with $2 donation. The One hour tour concluded with generous tastings of 3 varieties of beer including Boston Lager and Summer Ale. Be sure to get there early to reserve your spot as they are pretty filled , especially on weekends.
Regina Pizzeria
A visit to Boston wouldn't be complete without a visit to the famous Pizzeria Regina. A North End Institution since 1926. Lines are long for this no frills place. I ordered it takeout and bypassed the lines. A short walk to the park on Hanover Street with tables and fountains let me eat my pizza in the glorious sunshine.
Haymarket Square
Across the park I spotted Haymarket Square, a open market held Fridays and Saturdays from 7am-7pm. I felt like I stepped into another world with Halal meat and fish vendors, ethnic produce, spices and Falafel shops.
Boston truly is the most European of all American cities. I admit this is not what I was expecting. If I closed my eyes I could sometimes feel as if I was London or at times Stockholm with the waterways, cobbled streets, and old world charm. The people of Boston were friendly and helpful, which you don't find often in the big cities. Its no surprise people from all over come here to attend world-class institutions of education. Be it history, education, or food, Boston offers something for everyone. After a full week of vacation and I was still curious to explore more. You don't need a fortune to capture the essence of this city. Just good walking shoes, an empty stomach, and a love of history, food, and drink.
GETTING THERE AND GETTING AROUND:
Boston has a pretty good and uncomplicated Public Transportation system, the MBTA.Logan International Airport has a myriad of transport options. We took the water taxi for a scenic and affordable $12 to our hotel . The taxis stop at several locations throughout the city. You can also take the Silver Line ( or the T) a bus/trolley vehicle for $2 that connects to the subways. All public transport is $2 each way, with no transfer fees added. Great deal. If you plan to use the MBTA buy a Charlie card and upload your ticket as necessary. Day and Link passes are available as well.
