Scratching the Surface of San Francisco
A Foodie’s Weekend
Friday, May 13, 2010
By Courtney Nzeribe
Having traveled a good part of this world, I always need a reminder of the vastness, majesty, and beauty of the United States. Twice the size of the European Union, but less populous, one would need a great deal of time and money to explore all the nooks and crannies. My experience out West has been limited, but I knew instinctively the city of San Francisco and I would become fast friends.
From a foodie perspective the Bay Area is the place to make a pilgrimage. One wonders with all the bounty, is everyone who lives there as passionate about the food? Or do they take for granted some of the most exciting offerings the country has to offer? The sea and land give the city rich and organic food and wine that can’t be beat. Living in Chicago, - which isn’t too shabby foodwise - I felt inspired and re- invigorated after my recent long weekend in San Francisco. We barely scratched the surface of the city, but we managed to satiate our senses
Day One: Embarcadero District (Financial District)
You can smell the sea as you walk by the various vendors selling fantastic jewelry, and New Age-ish clothing and art to the Ferry Building Market Place. The Ferry Building is a higher end tourist destination with gourmet offerings galore. Take a coffee at Blue Bottle Coffee Co and watch them slowly make your latte with an artistic flourish on the foam. Then, if you can, grab a café table at Boulette’s Larder outside. Sit on the dock and soak up the sun or go to the Golden Gate Meat Company for breakfast. Then walk to the Cow Girl Creamery for cheese samples that will blow your mind. Maybe take back some with Acme Bread for your room later. But don’t forget Boccalone for a Salumi cone or platter of specially selected cured meats for later. The artisanal Salumi will melt like butter in your mouth and bring a new appreciation for Salumierie. It all shuts down by 6 pm, but a visit is great way to start your day.
From the Ferry Building walk about a mile towards Pier 33 to catch a boat to Alcatraz. The famous prison that housed the likes of Al Capone and the Birdman sits on a deteriorating rock, but serves as beautiful nature preserve in the midst of the Bay. Be prepared to climb up steep hills and just take in chilly but breathtaking views. Make your way up the hill to see the actual prison quarters and listen to recollections from former prisoners on an audio tour. Surprisingly small and a bit cold with wind coming off the water, Alcatraz is sure to delight the nature lover or history buff. Did you know Alcatraz had some of the best food in the US Penal System? There San Francisco goes again with legendary food, even in prison.
Come back to shore and while you are in the neighborhood walk further along to the uber touristy Fisherman’s Wharf. Not really my cup of tea, but I was in search of crabs where you can by from a stall on the street. We found them and had a mediocre but decent meal. Fisherman’s Wharf may not appeal to all but it would be great if travelling with kids. If there be sure to see the famous Sea Lions who mysteriously started migrating to Pier 39 years ago, and sometimes disappear, only to come back. The lions have taken over the docks. Watch them screech, bray and occasionally shove off one another for space or some sort of territorial claim.
If you have room for dinner head on over to R&G Lounge later in Chinatown for some excellent , if not the best, Cantonese Chinese food in the city. Whatever you do ,you must order the gigantic deep fried Dungeness Salt and Pepper Crab to share. Don’t be shy or dainty about eating it. Just dig in with both hands and your mouth. By now you will be knocked out for Day 2.
Saturday Day 2 :Ferry Building Farmers Market
The largest Farmers Market in the City. Engage in conversation with proud farmers and food artisans . Take back what you can , and don’t forget to get a few bags of the famous Rancho Gordo Heirloom Beans. They will make you rethink beans as they are so full of flavor .Before or after shopping grab a bite from the many innovative food trucks around the market. Be warned Roli Rotis Porchetta and Roast Chicken truck has the longest lines but worth the wait. The slow cooked Porchetta sandwich dressed with arugula has to be one of the best sandwiches ever made. Believe the hype on this. It’s that good.
Muir Woods
Get a friend with a car or rent one and drive along the coast to the Muir Woods in Marin County, a national nonument, home of the giant redwoods. Marvel at nature and enjoy peaceful surrounding as you walk the shaded trails with trees that are centuries old. Beautiful, tranquil, and spiritual.
If you have time, drive all the way up to Twin Peaks and look down on the city below. You’ll feel as if you’re up in the clouds.
DAY 3
Explore some more, take a last walk around a neighborhood or two and grab some breakfast or lunch at Café de la Presse around Union Square. It’s the closest thing to stepping into a café in Paris. Purchase magazines and newspapers from all over the world and sip on a Kir Royale while you read. Space can be tight and little noisy, but they are just mimicking a real Parisian café.
Fly home and vow to come back for a longer trip and explore the wine country in Sonoma and Napa.
