Posts Tagged ‘Haiti’

The Haiti Shout Outs

Sunday, February 7th, 2010

I got a note from a longtime friend, South Carolina activist Kevin Gray, who recently went to Haiti to help out as well as get educated on what really is going on. It said: ” I ran into some of your people in Port-au-Prince.”

Now, I’m not from Haiti so I was in a bit of a quandary as to what Kevn was talking about, but it turns out that a few close friends from Howard University have been in Haiti doing what they can with the skills they’ve been blessed with. So a very public shout out to Dr. Broderick Franklin and Dr. Greg Banks - both HU contemporaries and hang out partners who very quietly do what they do every day without fanfare.

And to all others who’ve lent a hand in any way they could - THANKS!  —  Eric Easter

Daily Weirdness

Monday, January 25th, 2010

Sunday started off benignly enough, with my initial desire to photograph one of the many Catholic masses that took place in the city. I wanted a church that had been badly damaged, but possessed a congregation resilient enough to continue holding services on the site. Didn’t have a real address to anywhere specific, so we (friend and photographer André Chung) decided to cruise by the National Cathedral for starters. A once majestic building with classical architecture, it now resembles the Alamo. The roof has totally collapsed, the outer walls are badly damaged or gone, pieces of the building are scattered everywhere around its base, and one doorway contains two corpses. They were unfortunate individuals who nearly escaped the wrath of the quake and their upper torsos still lay outside of the doorway, their lower bodies covered with rubble just inside the threshold. They sadly missed the rest of their lives by a mere second before succumbing to falling concrete.

In route to the cathedral, we were sidetracked by the site of a Catholic Monsignor walking up the street with all of the purpose in the world – bible in hand and elegantly dressed in a purple and black robe. We jumped from the car and paced him along his walk for a brief time, making photographs as he weaved his way along the narrow sidewalk, peppered with other pedestrians. He indicated that he was in route to deliver mass at a nearby church and we decided to go there. The church was totally destroyed, but the mass itself took place adjacent to one of the many tent cities sprouting up everywhere. The service itself was very sedate and didn’t make a good picture, so we just watched for a while before moving on. We ran into a couple of other good photo opportunities and worked those for a while, but we decided to go downtown near “Crazy Street”. The reason photographers here call it that should be evident.

As we drove into the downtown area (over the usual abundance of debris and trash) and turned the corner onto one of the main drags, it was like seeing the aftermath of the apocalypse. I had been there a few times before, but earlier. This time, the light was just past perfect and helped cast a bizarre feeling to everything. There were several open fires burning in the street, and a cast of obviously desperate people mysteriously moved around like zombies. Some were crawling in and out of the now crumbled buildings, scrounging for whatever useable items they could get their hands on, while others walked around with a semi-dazed look in their eyes with no apparent destination. Power lines hung down everywhere and the occasional smell of rotting flesh passed through the air. Cat sized rats scrambled back and forth, jumping from one hole in the street to another. While backing up to make a photograph, I stepped near the edge of some burned rubble. Upon closer inspection, four human skulls were mixed in with the ashes. We stayed there for a couple of hours, till the light really started to fade, talked with some of the people and made plenty of pictures. Occasionally, there were altercations between some of the scavengers. We kept an eye on that from down the block. You don’t want to get too close and have the anger direct itself towards you. Of course the police showed up to rouse them, only to have them return moments later to continue their quest.

As if it couldn’t get any stranger, thick black smoke started rising from a set of buildings a few blocks away. Someone had just set a store on fire. It was a fully stocked tire warehouse. The fire department showed up and went through the motions, but rubber can burn for days. I don’t know how that turned out, since we had lost all light, it was late and time to pull out. The pictures had dried up and there was really no other reason to be there.

Dudley M. Brooks

EBONY in Haiti: Change of Abode

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

We had to change rooms last night. Too many guys with camera gear, computers, cords, bells and whistles for a one bed, single room to handle - we’re up to six in and out room users now. I think. The plan has been in the makings for a few days now, but we finally put it into execution last night – at 11:00pm.

Too much carbon-monoxide was coming in through the window at night, from the generators on the lawn, and we just couldn’t take it anymore. We’re waking up at 5:30am every morning, and being gassed out shouldn’t be part of the plan, especially when you’re rolling until 1:00am the following morning. Had to trade up.

New problem now, we’re deeper into the hotel, facing the downslide of a hill. Had to make the emergency – which way to run plan – if another quake decides to bring down the other half of the hotel. I figure that we have less than 10 seconds to get up three exterior flights of stairs to the pool area, and that’s if we’re not sleep when it hits. Jumping out onto the balcony (the quickest way out) is not a viable option, unless you want to surf down a 45-degree hillside drop in your shorts. I guess it’s back to sleeping in my clothes. –Dudley

EBONY in Haiti: The Hard Guy

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

The Cubans run a small hospital facility near the National Cathedral in Port au Prince. Actually, to call it a hospital is a stretch – it’s really a series of tents and plastic tarps, supported by tree branches on the lawn of a non-descript building. The waiting room is the open air and patients recover in areas on the lawn, cordoned off by blankets or whatever fabric is found. They do good work here, because they keep people alive. This afternoon there was only one lifeless body. It was covered and pushed way off to the side of the courtyard. I guess this was a good day for the staff. Everywhere I go, I’m constantly amazed by what people can endure and this situation in Haiti is no different.

An older boy, 15 or 16, came in accompanied by his mother to have his arm dressing changed. His head was also wrapped in a bandage and he was clearly in pain. As the medical attendant unwrapped the arm, an eight-inch long gash was revealed, with muscle torn down to the bone. She grabbed a bottle of iodine and poured it directly on the wound. She continued to pour a second bottle, despite his screams. The wound could very well be an amputation, but they can’t do that here. They only have the facilities to treat. It’s a hopeful, not too temporary save. He looks at me making his photograph and I immediately know the look. He wants to be the hard guy, but the pain is too intense. Tears stream down his face, while his mother pats her hand on his chest and lays her head on his shoulder for comfort. This is hard for her too – it’s damned hard for all of us. To witness someone experiencing unbearable pain is a difficult thing - but at least he’s getting treatment.

Dudley M. Brooks

EBONY in Haiti: Scavenger Hunt

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

Downtown Port au Prince was packed with people this morning - as usual.  Many of the buildings are piles of concrete now and today’s pre-dawn tremor (registered a 6.1, a quake in my book) didn’t do much to calm the tension.  Disaster does strange things to the human psyche and it takes a person out of their normal state of mind.  Folks are desperate and they need the basics - food, water and shelter, plus anything else that they think they could use.  The police call them looters, but they’re scavengers really.  They’re looking for a way out of this madness that’s been thrown at them - through no fault of their own.  They crawl into the downed buildings, grabbing anything within easy reach.  They ignore structural damage, and the possibility of a collapse, to battle over ragged pieces of cloth.  It’s sad really. To lose everything in the blink of an eye is heavy.

Dudley M. Brooks

EBONY in Haiti: Aftershock!

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

6:00am and we just had another aftershock.  We’re all up working (and many waking up) on the pool side area of the hotel. Half of it is already down from the quake and our area is 20 feet away from the wreckage.  It feels strange to feel the ground move under your feet.  This one was short, but fairly strong.  You get from under anything structural and wait it out- then get back to work.

- Dudley M. Brooks

EBONY: An Un-ceremonial Burial

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

It was close to an hour long drive to Titayen, a village on the outskirts of Port au Prince, where small convoys of dump trucks deposited the bodies of quake victims.  I had heard stories that, earlier in the week, hundreds had been deposited there - amidst the garbage and debris.  They were spread on the very field where Papa Doc Duvalier deposited the remains of his enemies years ago.  Mass graves are easy to find - you follow the smell.  It’s an acrid, powerful, disturbing smell that, depending on the wind, can drift for miles.  It stays in your nose hairs and saturates your clothes.

You smell it for the rest of day.  Today was different, for all of the bodies have been dozed over.  But fresh pre-dug pits are ready for new ones to arrive.  We decided to wait for a while and briefly chatted with an old man, pulling his donkey past the dirt mounds of cover dirt.  Two dump trucks soon arrived and backed up to a pit.  When the load was released, among the jagged pieces of concrete and twisted metal were the partially decomposed bodies of a man and a young woman.  We now have a no shoe rule in the room where four us now sleep - two of us on the floor.  All of us have visited Titayen and we have no desire to track death in the room.

Dudley M. Brooks

EBONY in Haiti: Help Along the Way…but the Way to Where?

Tuesday, January 19th, 2010

Since neither of us spoke Creole, my driver and I were now in the same boat. This was my second visit to Haiti and neither was a pleasure trip, but it was his first. We had the name of a hotel, The El Rancho in the Petionville area of town, but no clue of how to get there. Despite the magnitude of this tragedy, I hope it becomes a strong testament to the resilience and the graciousness of the Haitian people. Everyone we stopped - and I mean everyone – helped us find our way without asking us for a thing. The most extreme case being a young boy, no more than 10 years old, who accurately pointed us in the proper direction. Ignacio gave him a few pesos. As we crept through the masses, we passed by building after flattened building and cars crushed like empty aluminum cans. That’s the first danger of an earthquake. Structures collapse on themselves like imploded layer cakes and for the most part, there’s no possible way of escape - death is the usual outcome. The human body requires water, and although one can survive without taking in liquids after 48 hours, the combination of heat, confinement, lack of air and cement dust can make that accomplishment a near impossibility. Not to mention being crushed or held in place by thousands of pound matter. You hear the voice of help, but you may not have the strength for them to hear you. It has to be the closest thing to Hell.

Eventually we found the hotel, only to discover that it’s been closed for over three years. The adjacent Villa Creole was open, however, and is one of the main journalist hubs and places of safe haven for some of the locals. There were no available rooms, but I was invited to camp out on the poolside grounds with dozens of other photographers, writers and reporters who also have no place else to stay. Half of the hotel is collapsed, but they do have food and water for a price. Sleeping outside seems like a great option for the night, since we had another small tremor later that evening. - Dudley M. Brooks

EBONY in Haiti: Things Get Dicey at the Border

Tuesday, January 19th, 2010

As we approached the border, things got more intense and a little more urgent – especially in Ignacio’s body language.  We discovered during our last stop that there was no problem going in, but it could be an issue for him coming back out.  We would gauge it and see.  The border turned out to be a flurry of organized disorder.  Aid trucks and workers peppered the white gravel road carrying everything from bread to food to highly stacked cases of bottled water.   It’s hard to call it a border really, since the last thing they were concerned with was checking passports.  It’s more of a pass through area and there are too many other important things for border officials to deal with.

Our van crept along with the other vehicles and we were asked to wait in line with some of the larger relief trucks.  A member of the Dominican Republic military took our names and inquired of our purpose.  I explained through Ignacio that I was journalist, but that we were also carrying water.  He checked us off and instructed us to move up in the line.  Once 10 or so vehicles were gathered, we all slowly motorcaded through the gate, staying together as a group.  There’s safety in numbers.  We were in rural Haiti, quite a clip away from Port au Prince, so there was only minor damage and the street vibe was serene.

The first mass following the earthquake was letting out and older church people walked the roadside.  But as we entered the city center, that country-side serenity turned to urban tension as the streets became overrun with humanity.  People were crowded onto every space of the sidewalk and road and at times it was difficult to maneuver through them.   Sadly for many of them, these streets are now their home.

EBONY in Haiti: Calm Before the Storm on the Road

Tuesday, January 19th, 2010

We left at 6:30am Sunday morning in the pitch-blackness that is the Caribbean at that time of day.  I have a general rule when riding with drivers that I hire while out of the country - I immediately try to sleep.  Or at the very least, rest my eyes for the first part of the journey until I get comfortable with him.   It always takes me a while to adjust to how he does his thing on the road.  The center yellow line is a mere suggestion in the Dominican Republic and passing large trucks on blind curves is all part of the game.  Ignacio’s speedometer was totally non-functional, so it was hard to tell if he was really peaking at 100 miles an hour on a two-lane road as I thought.  I never like to concentrate on the worst or wish to see it coming, and it’s always good to relax while you can on a run and gun story.  It was dark anyway, so there wasn’t much to see.

At the crack of dawn, the beauty of the Dominican Republic countryside truly revealed itself.  It’s incredibly lush and the golden hour of sunlight saturates every color.  Mysterious shadows moving along the side of the road morphed into elegant pedestrians of every shade of brown.  Small engine motorcycles zipped in and out of traffic (I’m not sure of the injury rate of bikers in the DR, but it’s probably fairly substantial). Trucks full of villagers passed by on their early morning trek to where ever and young kids played dangerously close to the side of the road.  The road itself went through its changes.  Great blacktop, followed by rural road, followed by no road with boulder swallowing potholes, followed by great highway, followed by village road, followed by gravel.  That was the tune until we reached the border four and a half hours later.