Sunday started off benignly enough, with my initial desire to photograph one of the many Catholic masses that took place in the city. I wanted a church that had been badly damaged, but possessed a congregation resilient enough to continue holding services on the site. Didn’t have a real address to anywhere specific, so we (friend and photographer André Chung) decided to cruise by the National Cathedral for starters. A once majestic building with classical architecture, it now resembles the Alamo. The roof has totally collapsed, the outer walls are badly damaged or gone, pieces of the building are scattered everywhere around its base, and one doorway contains two corpses. They were unfortunate individuals who nearly escaped the wrath of the quake and their upper torsos still lay outside of the doorway, their lower bodies covered with rubble just inside the threshold. They sadly missed the rest of their lives by a mere second before succumbing to falling concrete.
In route to the cathedral, we were sidetracked by the site of a Catholic Monsignor walking up the street with all of the purpose in the world – bible in hand and elegantly dressed in a purple and black robe. We jumped from the car and paced him along his walk for a brief time, making photographs as he weaved his way along the narrow sidewalk, peppered with other pedestrians. He indicated that he was in route to deliver mass at a nearby church and we decided to go there. The church was totally destroyed, but the mass itself took place adjacent to one of the many tent cities sprouting up everywhere. The service itself was very sedate and didn’t make a good picture, so we just watched for a while before moving on. We ran into a couple of other good photo opportunities and worked those for a while, but we decided to go downtown near “Crazy Street”. The reason photographers here call it that should be evident.
As we drove into the downtown area (over the usual abundance of debris and trash) and turned the corner onto one of the main drags, it was like seeing the aftermath of the apocalypse. I had been there a few times before, but earlier. This time, the light was just past perfect and helped cast a bizarre feeling to everything. There were several open fires burning in the street, and a cast of obviously desperate people mysteriously moved around like zombies. Some were crawling in and out of the now crumbled buildings, scrounging for whatever useable items they could get their hands on, while others walked around with a semi-dazed look in their eyes with no apparent destination. Power lines hung down everywhere and the occasional smell of rotting flesh passed through the air. Cat sized rats scrambled back and forth, jumping from one hole in the street to another. While backing up to make a photograph, I stepped near the edge of some burned rubble. Upon closer inspection, four human skulls were mixed in with the ashes. We stayed there for a couple of hours, till the light really started to fade, talked with some of the people and made plenty of pictures. Occasionally, there were altercations between some of the scavengers. We kept an eye on that from down the block. You don’t want to get too close and have the anger direct itself towards you. Of course the police showed up to rouse them, only to have them return moments later to continue their quest.
As if it couldn’t get any stranger, thick black smoke started rising from a set of buildings a few blocks away. Someone had just set a store on fire. It was a fully stocked tire warehouse. The fire department showed up and went through the motions, but rubber can burn for days. I don’t know how that turned out, since we had lost all light, it was late and time to pull out. The pictures had dried up and there was really no other reason to be there.
Dudley M. Brooks
Recent Comments